A Systematic Review of Fingers in Rock Climbing, Its Testing and Training Method

Tan, Jie Yi (2021) A Systematic Review of Fingers in Rock Climbing, Its Testing and Training Method. Final Year Project (Bachelor), Tunku Abdul Rahman University College.

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Abstract

The purpose of this study is to perform a systematic review on the impact of climbing on fingers to educate readers, compile testing and the finger training methods done in climbing scientific research that are easily accessible and evaluate the strengths and weaknesses of these programs while determining the suitable population to adopt these training methods. The PRISMA guidelines and PICOS are used as frameworks in the systematic review. Only English published papers were considered with last search on 31 March 2021 from 7 electronic databases. Studies in English that recruited rock climbers or active participants that dealt with finger injuries, muscles activation, biomechanics of fingers in climbing and clearly outlined testing protocols and training programs, equipment that are easily accessible or can be bought on market were included in the review. Data was analysed using the PICOS framework to compare between studies. The finger injuries are the most prevalent in climbers no matter the field of expertise or experience in climbing. The importance of fingers in climbing is separated into biomechanics and physiological aspects that address the strength and endurance of the finger flexors. Finger strength tests require climbers to hang on a ledge for three to five seconds with an electronic scale or added weights, with both arms or on one arm depending on ability of climb. Finger endurance tests are assessment of climbers’ ability to hang on ledge 11mm-25mm until volitional exhaustion with their bodyweight. Finger training methods were identified for each group of climbing ability. Beginners should focus on strengthening the forearm muscles; intermediate should perform hangs with bodyweight along with frenchies and locks; advance to elite climbers can train with added weights on small ledges with one or both arms. Additional recommendations for finger training in climbing were compiled. The objectives of the study are achieved as the importance of fingers in climbing are established, testing guidelines are recommended for standardization and training methods for each level of climbing are provided. No funding was provided for the review.