Comparing the Effectiveness of Hangboard and Pinch Block Training on Grip Strength and Endurance in Amateur Boulderers

Lee, Ivan Jiun Xian (2023) Comparing the Effectiveness of Hangboard and Pinch Block Training on Grip Strength and Endurance in Amateur Boulderers. Final Year Project (Bachelor), Tunku Abdul Rahman University of Management and Technology.

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Abstract

The purpose of this study was to compare the effectiveness of hangboard and pinch block training on improving grip strength and grip endurance in amateur boulderers. A total of 19 amateur boulderers (age = 30.79 ± 6.70 years, height = 168.42 ± 6.59cm; weight = 63.65 ± 9.35kg; years of experience = 1.47 ± 0.70 years; frequency of climbing sessions = 2.37 ± 0.50) took part in this study, and were divided into the hangboard group (n=9) and pinch block group (n=10). A maximum added-weight dead-hang test and a continuous dead-hang test were conducted before and after a 5-week intervention period to assess grip strength and grip endurance respectively. All participants performed either hangboard training or pinch block training while continuing their regular climbing practices. Both groups followed a similar training protocol, which consisted of 10-second sets at maximal intensity with 3 minute rest intervals. The results showed that the hangboard group significantly improved in both grip strength (p < 0.001) and grip endurance (p = 0.036), while the pinch block group only improved significantly in grip strength (p < 0.001). However, no significant differences were found between groups for both grip strength (p = 0.402) and grip endurance (p = 0.643). The findings suggest that both training methods can equally induce grip strength gains effectively, while only hangboard training has shown to effectively improve grip endurance.